Paris - Oysters & Churches

I spent a few days wandering in and around the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood in Paris. I had two fantastic meals plus some extraordinary sweets. Oysters were at the top of my Paris eats wishlist and, after some research, I chose Huîtrerie Régis to make it happen.

It's a tiny spot, six tables inside and a few more on the street. I arrived right after opening, around noon, and the restaurant was almost empty, just one table of three. Reviews indicate it fills up fast during prime time, so definitely come early. The menu is an exercise in minimalism, all oysters, fresh as can be. Sometimes shrimp and sea urchin are available as well, but they're essentially garnish. According to Paris by Mouth, the oysters are shipped in daily from Marennes-Oléron, a famous oyster cultivation region on the Western coast of France.

It  was my first meal of the day and my eyes were certainly bigger than my stomach. I ordered a tasting platter of six Fines de Claires and six Spéciale de Claires, plus six enormous pink shrimp. I wanted to try everything! The oysters were truly the very best I have tasted, though, admittedly, my oyster oeuvre is sadly limited. I slightly preferred the Spéciale de Claires, which were plumper and sweeter than the briny, more mineral Fines. But both were excellent. I took mine plain or with a spritz of lemon, forgoing the classic mignonette.

Unnecessary, but also delicious was the sesame studded bread with salted butter. And shrimp, too. On any other day the shrimp would have been the star of the show but in my refusal to waste any food, they left me overstuffed.

Huîtrerie Régis is tucked away on a small side street off of Boulevard Saint-Germain, just a few blocks from my next destination, the Church of Saint-Sulpice. The church provided the perfect respite for my overextended stomach. Though cool, dark, and peaceful, it is very much a working church with a staff and active worshipers. It's a crumbly old building, much in need of renovations, but with an intriguing, tangible sense of history. An interesting contrast to the bustling square outside. Full of tourists, students, nannies and their charges, business people on their lunch breaks-- a great spot for people watching.

Catedral de Sevilla + Casa Roman

You can't miss the Cathedral of Sevilla. The Cathedral's massive size and presence dominates the skyline of Sevilla's old quarter. La Giralda, a former minaret converted into a bell tower, stands so tall over the city's old quarter that I often used it like a compass to find my way home after a day of exploring. Reflecting Spain's Golden Age of discovery, the basilica is dominated by immense columns, elaborately tiled floor, and a soaring, ornately carved ceiling. After my visit I was un-surprised to learn that it is the largest Gothic church in the world. It's pretty epic.

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the cathedral was built over the Great Mosque the 1400s. Only the minaret and interior garden survived Christianization. The basilica also houses the (alleged) remains of Christopher Columbus. But good luck finding the monument, there's so much to see and so many tombs. I was distracted by the way that the stained glass windows filtered colored rays of light throughout the massive space. A few extra euro buys you a ticket to climb up La Giralda for a grand view of Sevilla. I skipped this in favor of a trip to the top of the Metropol Parasol later in the day.

And it was time for lunch. I stumbled my way to Casa Roman, another restaurant recommended by Shawn Hennessey, and had an incredibly simple, perfectly delicious meal. Like Las Teresas, Casa Roman has a lot of traditional Spanish charm.

Along with my now customary tinto, I decided I needed something green (I ate a lot of pork and potatoes in Spain). So a tapa of grilled zucchini seemed like just the thing. As is typical of many Spanish vegetable preparations, the zucchini was smothered in olive oil, rendering the flesh smooth and silky. Served cold like an antipasto, it was lovely.The main course was even better. I had the Grilled Presa Iberica, tender little strips of ibérico pork charred just so and liberally seasoned with coarse salt. A bed of fries below soaked up all the meaty juices.

After ending the meal with a coffee, my tired feet and full belly decided it was time for a siesta. I searched the skyline for La Giralda then followed it home to my hotel. A short rest later and I was ready for an evening adventure at Las Setas and another lovely meal at La Azotea.