Eating and exploring my way around the world. Starting in, out, and around Bloomington, Indiana.
5.26.2017
Amsterdam - Modern Art + A Seafood Feast
One of my favorite things about Amsterdam is the Museumplein. Just a few steps from the canals that circle the center of the city, the Musuemplein is where you'll find three of the city's most iconic museums; The Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, and the Stedelijk Museum.
After an epic morning at The Rijksmuseum I stopped for some much needed sustenance at the conveniently located Seafood Bar. I wanted a little bit of everything so I chose the Fruits de Mer platter plus a side of frites for good measure. When my food arrived it was so epic that I had a brief moment of panic that I had accidentally ordered Fruits de Mer ‘Seafood bar’ a much more expensive option. But no, my order was correct, it was just a massive platter of mussels, cockles, scallop, razor clams, periwinkles, shrimp, crab, and oysters. The seafood was fresh and sweet and definitely shareable. Skip the fries, the included baguette is offers plenty of carbs.
After lunch I made my way to the Stedelijk Museum. The modern and contemporary art museum is sometimes referred to as "The Bathtub" for its unique architecture. Bright, airy, and calm; the museum was a nice contrast to the overcrowded madness of the Van Gogh Museum. I enjoyed my relaxed tour of the collection, especially the 360 lego room, a temporary installation.
Tags:
amsterdam,
contemporary art,
food,
modern art,
museum,
photography,
seafood,
travel
11.09.2016
Prague - Pastacaffé & Žižkov Television Tower
I bookended my visit to the lovely Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad Market in the Vinohrady neighborhood of Prague with breakfast at Pastacaffé and a trip to the top of the Žižkov Television Tower. If you're spending more than a few days in Prague, I highly recommend a visit out past the city's tourist center to this lovely neighborhood!
Breakfast was a simple but visually elegant affair. A nicely pulled espresso with a tiny pour of cream and an even tinier cookie. To eat, a buttery croissant and two types of jam, a poached egg with toast soldiers for dipping. Plus a glass of carrot ginger citrus juice, because I needed some vitamins. Pastacaffé was just a few blocks from my guesthouse and is definitely worth a visit for breakfast. I returned for dinner later in my visit, it was just okay.
After fueling up, I took the tram out to the Vinohrady Farmer's Market, Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad. I spent the morning browsing and taking photos before making my way over to the Žižkov Television Tower. Situated on top of a hill, the tower offers amazing wide angle views of Prague. You really get a sense of the city's colorful architecture and diverse topography. The stark metal tower definitely stands out amongst the Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture. Don't forget to look up from the base to get the best view of David Černý's amusing yet ominous faceless baby sculptures which scale the sides of the tower.
Tags:
breakfast,
food,
prague,
solo travel,
travel,
view from the top
8.16.2016
Paris - Oysters & Churches
I spent a few days wandering in and around the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood in Paris. I had two fantastic meals plus some extraordinary sweets. Oysters were at the top of my Paris eats wishlist and, after some research, I chose Huîtrerie Régis to make it happen.
It's a tiny spot, six tables inside and a few more on the street. I arrived right after opening, around noon, and the restaurant was almost empty, just one table of three. Reviews indicate it fills up fast during prime time, so definitely come early. The menu is an exercise in minimalism, all oysters, fresh as can be. Sometimes shrimp and sea urchin are available as well, but they're essentially garnish. According to Paris by Mouth, the oysters are shipped in daily from Marennes-Oléron, a famous oyster cultivation region on the Western coast of France.
It was my first meal of the day and my eyes were certainly bigger than my stomach. I ordered a tasting platter of six Fines de Claires and six Spéciale de Claires, plus six enormous pink shrimp. I wanted to try everything! The oysters were truly the very best I have tasted, though, admittedly, my oyster oeuvre is sadly limited. I slightly preferred the Spéciale de Claires, which were plumper and sweeter than the briny, more mineral Fines. But both were excellent. I took mine plain or with a spritz of lemon, forgoing the classic mignonette.
Unnecessary, but also delicious was the sesame studded bread with salted butter. And shrimp, too. On any other day the shrimp would have been the star of the show but in my refusal to waste any food, they left me overstuffed.
Huîtrerie Régis is tucked away on a small side street off of Boulevard Saint-Germain, just a few blocks from my next destination, the Church of Saint-Sulpice. The church provided the perfect respite for my overextended stomach. Though cool, dark, and peaceful, it is very much a working church with a staff and active worshipers. It's a crumbly old building, much in need of renovations, but with an intriguing, tangible sense of history. An interesting contrast to the bustling square outside. Full of tourists, students, nannies and their charges, business people on their lunch breaks-- a great spot for people watching.
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