5.26.2017

Amsterdam - Modern Art + A Seafood Feast

Looking into the Stedelijk Museum on Amsterdam's Museumplein.

One of my favorite things about Amsterdam is the Museumplein. Just a few steps from the canals that circle the center of the city, the Musuemplein is where you'll find three of the city's most iconic museums; The Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, and the Stedelijk Museum.

After an epic morning at The Rijksmuseum I stopped for some much needed sustenance at the conveniently located Seafood Bar. I wanted a little bit of everything so I chose the Fruits de Mer platter plus a side of frites for good measure. When my food arrived it was so epic that I had a brief moment of panic that I had accidentally ordered Fruits de Mer ‘Seafood bar’ a much more expensive option. But no, my order was correct, it was just a massive platter of mussels, cockles, scallop, razor clams, periwinkles, shrimp, crab, and oysters. The seafood was fresh and sweet and definitely shareable. Skip the fries, the included baguette is offers plenty of carbs.

After lunch I made my way to the Stedelijk Museum. The modern and contemporary art museum is sometimes referred to as "The Bathtub" for its unique architecture. Bright, airy, and calm; the museum was a nice contrast to the overcrowded madness of the Van Gogh Museum. I enjoyed my relaxed tour of the collection, especially the 360 lego room, a temporary installation.

A Fall stroll through Amsterdam's Museumplein.
A young girl splashes her way through the pond near the iAmsterdam sign in front of the Rijksmuseum.
It's easy to see why Amsterdam's Stedelijk Museum is sometimes called "The Bathtub."
A massive platter of seafood at the aptly named "Seafood Bar" in Amsterdam, Netherlands.
The frites at Seafood Bar in Amsterdam are photogenic but ultimately unnecessary.
An oyster is kept chilled amongst a variety of its relatives at Seafood Bar in Amsterdam.
A baguette is served alongside seafood platters at Seafood Bar in Amsterdam.
Cockles and snails are a few of the unique additions to a massive platter at Seafood Bar in Amsterdam.



A visitor captures a double rainbow at Wall Drawing #1084 by Sol Lewitt at Amsterdam's Stedelijk Museum.
A Calder mobile at the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, Netherlands
A colorful piece by Robert Rauschenberg at Amsterdam's Stedelijk Museum.
Midnight Aura by Billie Zangewa on the wall at the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, Netherlands.
A temporary lego installation at the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam is captivating for young visitors.
Some lego creations at the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, Netherlands.
A temporary lego installation at the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam is captivating for young visitors.

11.09.2016

Prague - Pastacaffé & Žižkov Television Tower

A wide angle view of Prague from the top of the Žižkov Television Tower.


I bookended my visit to the lovely Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad Market in the Vinohrady neighborhood of Prague with breakfast at Pastacaffé and a trip to the top of the Žižkov Television Tower. If you're spending more than a few days in Prague, I highly recommend a visit out past the city's tourist center to this lovely neighborhood!

David Černý's faceless baby sculptures scale the heights of the Žižkov Television Tower in Prague
Classic Prague architecture is jazzed up with a pair of sunglasses and headphones.


Breakfast was a simple but visually elegant affair. A nicely pulled espresso with a tiny pour of cream and an even tinier cookie. To eat, a buttery croissant and two types of jam, a poached egg with toast soldiers for dipping. Plus a glass of carrot ginger citrus juice, because I needed some vitamins. Pastacaffé was just a few blocks from my guesthouse and is definitely worth a visit for breakfast. I returned for dinner later in my visit, it was just okay.

Morning espresso to begin breakfast at Pastacaffé in Prague.
A refreshing ginger carrot juice at Pastacaffé in Prague.
An elegant breakfast at Pastacaffé in Prague.


After fueling up, I took the tram out to the Vinohrady Farmer's Market, Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad. I spent the morning browsing and taking photos before making my way over to the Žižkov Television Tower. Situated on top of a hill, the tower offers amazing wide angle views of Prague. You really get a sense of the city's colorful architecture and diverse topography. The stark metal tower definitely stands out amongst the Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture. Don't forget to look up from the base to get the best view of David Černý's amusing yet ominous faceless baby sculptures which scale the sides of the tower.

A scale model of the Žižkov Television Tower in Prague.
The red roofs of Prague from the Žižkov Television Tower.
Comfy, modern seats at the top of the Žižkov Television Tower in Prague are a nice place to relax.
Prague city views from the top of the Žižkov Television Tower.

8.16.2016

Paris - Oysters & Churches

Find the Church of Saint-Sulpice in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood in the 6th arrondissement.
An epic platter of fresh oysters and shrimp at Huîtrerie Régis in Paris.


I spent a few days wandering in and around the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood in Paris. I had two fantastic meals plus some extraordinary sweets. Oysters were at the top of my Paris eats wishlist and, after some research, I chose Huîtrerie Régis to make it happen.

Afternoon drinks and games on the streets of Paris.


A close up of the fantastics oysters you'll find at Huitrerie Régis.
The oysters at Huitrerie Régis are delivered fresh from the famous oyster fields of Marennes-Oléron


It's a tiny spot, six tables inside and a few more on the street. I arrived right after opening, around noon, and the restaurant was almost empty, just one table of three. Reviews indicate it fills up fast during prime time, so definitely come early. The menu is an exercise in minimalism, all oysters, fresh as can be. Sometimes shrimp and sea urchin are available as well, but they're essentially garnish. According to Paris by Mouth, the oysters are shipped in daily from Marennes-Oléron, a famous oyster cultivation region on the Western coast of France.

Oysters at Huitrerie Régisare don't need much, but they're served with plenty of lemon and a vinegar mignonette.


It  was my first meal of the day and my eyes were certainly bigger than my stomach. I ordered a tasting platter of six Fines de Claires and six Spéciale de Claires, plus six enormous pink shrimp. I wanted to try everything! The oysters were truly the very best I have tasted, though, admittedly, my oyster oeuvre is sadly limited. I slightly preferred the Spéciale de Claires, which were plumper and sweeter than the briny, more mineral Fines. But both were excellent. I took mine plain or with a spritz of lemon, forgoing the classic mignonette.

Unnecessary, but also delicious was the sesame studded bread with salted butter. And shrimp, too. On any other day the shrimp would have been the star of the show but in my refusal to waste any food, they left me overstuffed.

The Church of Saint-Sulpice with its mis-matched towers.


Huîtrerie Régis is tucked away on a small side street off of Boulevard Saint-Germain, just a few blocks from my next destination, the Church of Saint-Sulpice. The church provided the perfect respite for my overextended stomach. Though cool, dark, and peaceful, it is very much a working church with a staff and active worshipers. It's a crumbly old building, much in need of renovations, but with an intriguing, tangible sense of history. An interesting contrast to the bustling square outside. Full of tourists, students, nannies and their charges, business people on their lunch breaks-- a great spot for people watching.

Inside the Church of Saint-Sulpice, located in the heart of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood.
'Jacob Wrestling with the Angel' a mural by Delacroix fills one of the chapels at the Church of Saint-Sulpice in Paris.
Lots and lots of history below your feet.
The candles of worshippers are ever present at the Church of Saint-Sulpice.
The courtyard outside of the Church of Saint-Sulpice is perfect for picnicking and people watching.

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